Posts tagged: Credit

Credit card rewards comparison calculator

Note: This is not expert advice, as always with your money research it yourself, talk to those whom you trust, and get real advice before investing. Risk is always a factor.

So if you’ve read my post on why getting a credit card is a good idea, and how to use it so that the credit card companies pay you money instead of the other way around then you may be wondering which card to get to maximize your benefits. There are a few factors:

  • Annual Fee – Some cards have them, some cards don’t
  • Transaction Fees – Most good cards don’t have any strange fees for regular transactions, but it’s a good idea to check.
  • Rewards – What type of reward is provided?
  • Limit – Is it enough to match your monthly spending?
  • Interest Rate – If you follow the autopay guidelines, this shouldn’t be important. DON’T CARRY DEBT ON YOUR CREDIT CARD, the interest rate is normally much worse then a personal line of credit (that you can get from the bank) or a specific loan for whatever purpose you are using the money for.
  • Grace period – It’s normal that cards have this, and critical that they do, 20-30 days is ideal

With a little research, you can find multiple good cards. And when you’ve got a few good canidates, you can then decide which sort of reward to use. There are two major types of rewards, cashback, and frequent flyer miles; depending on your situation picking the right rewards card can make a big difference. In order to decide between these two types of cards you must figure out what the relative reward percentage of each card is based off their annual fee, reward values, and how much you spend. To make this easy, I’ve made a spreadsheet, which you can download here. Just fill in the information required into the yellow boxes, and the better card will be calculated. In my example, despite having an annual fee the Mileage card is a better choice, netting $160 more every year.

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The Credit Game, Level 2

As usual, I’m not an expert, just another guy that likes having extra cash, so please speak with a trusted individual and do the research before making any major decision with your money.

 

I had a pretty surprising response to my first post on credit, so I’d like to share another way to beat the curve, this is a little tougher to pull off, and a little more complicated to judge the value of then the regular credit card game; but can have a good payoff if the situations and (pay attention Kevin) the math is right.  It’s a bit long winded but the process is just as important as the outcome and I hope that even if you don’t have the same situation I do that you will be able to see how you can apply it to your own.  This trick will work for you if you are in the following situation:

  1. You have debt that you are currently paying off, that is liquid.  Which means that paying it down expands your available credit.  Good examples are credit card debt, and what I’ll be using in my example, Equity lines.
  2. You currently have a credit card (or two) that is not carrying any debt.
  3. That credit card company has extended you a special bonus offer for a reduced interest rate or a grace period.
It’s important to look at all the details and do your own calculations, often you can LOSE money if the math is wrong or you forget a factor.  But stick with me here, because if the math is in your favor it could mean hundreds of dollars.
I’m going to use a real life example that occurred to me recently.  I am a proud home owner (perhaps a good piece of investment advice I’ll offer if the traffic keeps on flowing for the boring money talk), and while I would have liked to have purchased it with a single loan (30 year fixed rate), like many first time home buyers, and especially home buyers in high priced markets like Hawaii, I had to get a second home loan; called a Home Equity Line of Credit, or HELOC.  The nice part about this line is unlike a fixed loan, there is no penalty to withdraw money from it as long as you have good credit.  Which means, whenever you have spare cash paying down your HELOC with it is an amazing investment, not paying interest is the same as earning it, and your money remains as liquid as it was in your checking account, minus perhaps a slight delay to transfer it back over.   The downside is this interest rate is variable, meaning that the rate of interest fluctuates daily with the prime lending rate.  The loan I have is a pretty decent 1/8 of a percent less then prime.  Although it’s a little lower now, for the sake of this example and to make the numbers nice, I’ll be assuming prime will average to around 7 1/8% next year, leaving my Equity APR at 7%.  (Side note, remember the credit game?  Think of how much you earn/save with an APR of 7% instead of 2.5%).
Yesterday my credit card company (Wamu) sent me a flyer in the mail with blank checks advertising “1.99% interest rate through April 2009″, good towards the balance on my second credit card, which I don’t normally use (another no annual fee’s card, I wouldn’t recommend having more then 2 credit cards).  The first thing I then proceeded to do was to read the small print for the catches, and there are a couple.
  • 1 time per check fee of 5% of the balance, or $150 whichever is less – Okay, because my limit is $8,000 and I’ll likely use the whole thing as this is an unused card I will end up paying $150, so I will consider this a cost of the investment and subtract it from my earnings later on.  Also important because it means an early full payment would probably mean I’ll lose money (as I hadn’t given the investment time to mature) so I made sure I can change my autopay type on that card from being “balance in full” to “monthly 
  • If not payed off by April the balance shifts to being 15% + Prime (around 20%, OUCH!) - Wamu allows you to schedule payments, so I can automatically schedule my payment for a safe date before the bad interest comes in and steals all my profits away.
  • Can’t be used to pay off other Wamu debt - Since I’ll be using this to pay off my equity line, (check the rules for your equity lines as some don’t allow for this sort of hijinks) and not another Wamu debt.  I’m in the clear.
  • Limit is spending cap on card, and there are penalties for going over your limit. - Easy enough as I don’t use this card for other purposes normally, I’ll write the check for $8000 minus fees ($150), or $7,850.
  • Must continue to make minimum payments on credit card while going - Ugh.  Makes the math more difficult, but you can see my spreadsheet below.
So, the game plan is to write the check to myself, cash it into my checking, and transfer it to the equity line.  And if during the next 11 months the difference in the APR that I’ll be paying on the credit card (2%) and the APR I would be paying on my equity line (Aprox. 7%) is more then the cost of the investment ($150) by a great enough degree to justify the labor I put into figuring it all out and the risk of a mistake on my part, I’ll bite.

So in my example, for the work and the risk I make $223.  Not bad for maybe a half hours work.  :)  Your mileage may vary.

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Umm.. wow.

The interweb is a strange place.  But she is my mistress, so you can probably expect another credit secrets post tomorrow :)

I can’t believe it took you guys 5 days to realize how cool I am :)

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The credit game

Note:  This is not expert advice, as always with your money research it yourself, talk to those whom you trust, and get real advice before investing.  Risk is always a factor.

 

When I was young, my Dad gave me a real important piece of financial advice.  He said, “With money, there are two types of people, those who pay interest and never have enough, and those who make interest and always have some.”  Now he might not have said it just like that, and he was probably quoting somebody much smarter (smarter then my Dad?  Unlikely), but it stuck.  I always wanted to be one of those that makes interest.  So I’ve avoided debt like the plague.  One of my main reasons for joining the Navy was so that I could have money for college without having to work full time or take out those huge burden student loans.

 

But does that mean you shouldn’t get a credit card?  Hell no.  You just get them to pay you interest, and never return the favor.  First I’ll explain the rules, and then I’ll demonstrate on how this will MAKE you money:

  1. If you don’t already have one, get a free checking account from your local or branch bank.
  2. Setup a savings account at your bank as well, make sure there are no transaction fee’s and find one that is easy to transfer to and from, money market based savings account offer a good rate with relatively low risk.
  3. Setup automatic deposits from your place of employment into the savings account (Hassle free and the normally the quickest way to get your money)
  4. Find a a good credit card.  No monthly or annual fees, no finance fees, and 25+ day grace period (critical).  There are plenty, and with the way credit card companies operate these days ANYONE can get one of these cards (My friend Gabe just got an offer in the mail addressed to his dog).  It’s a bonus if you can get one that has some form of rewards program (I use a card that gives me United Frequent Flyer miles, but often the cards that give 1.5% or 2% cash back are better, depending on how much you fly).  I would recommend Wamu, you can get a card almost immediately online from them AND they offer free monthly tracking of your credit score (I’ll explain this later).
  5. This is key:  Setup automatic FULL payment for your credit card from your checking account.  Make sure you have enough money in the checking account to pay off your bills every month.
  6. Put everything that you normally buy on your credit card.
  7. STAY WITHIN YOUR LIMITS.  Don’t spend money that you don’t have, and don’t spend money that you “plan” on making.  The whole game falls apart if you can’t pay your bills.  One way to do this is to keep a purchase log, a running tally of how much money is in your checking account.  Verify this online (most banks have that option).
  8. When your credit card statement comes in, transfer the FULL balance from your savings account into the checking account (to get the most money value, future date this transfer to be made a few business days before your credit card automatically pays)
  9. Profit.
Here is how it works.  You work for the man.  The man puts $2000 in your savings account (a money market account at your bank, paying 2.5% APR).  You keep track of your spending during the month and put it all on your card.  The total spent is $2000.  30 days later, you get the credit card bill in the mail, you know from the last bill you got that the autopay is deducted from your checking around the 6th of the month (example) 20 days from today, so you hop online and setup an automatic transfer from your savings to your checking account 15 days from today to be safe.  The 6th rolls around and the money is pulled from your checking account, and your credit card balance is reduced to 0.  Congratulations, you just got the credit card company to give you an 45 day interest free loan.  Had you been paying directly with your debit card, the money would not have been in your savings account.  So you made 2.5% APR interest on $2000 for 45 days ($2000 * .025 APR * 1.5 months / 12 months per year = $6.25).  In our little example, you made only $6.25, maybe worth a few minutes of your time, but what if your card pays cashback? ($2000 * 1.5% cashback = $30), now your talking $36.25 for every $2000 spent monthly.  And that’s one month.  Assuming you can do this every month that’s $435 per year.  And the best part is, playing this game actually IMPROVES your credit (My score is currently at 802).
And here is the risk: YOU.  If you ever go beyond your means and miss a payment, almost all your gains are lost.  Credit cards normally have rates anywhere from 15-25% APR.  So lets assume in our example you don’t transfer the money from your savings account.  The credit card will try to autopay, and get nada, you will likely have to pay a fee (likely $150 or so), and you will also now have to pay all the back interest that they didn’t charge you that month for the credit card ($2000 * .20% APR = $400), so in one foul swoop you just cost yourself $500+ dollars, and likely negated all gains that you have made.
I’ve been playing this game since I was old enough to apply for my first Credit card, and I’ve racked up a pretty high score.  They keep increase my credit limit, despite the fact that I’ve never paid late, and therefore never paid them any money in regular interest, ever.  Who knows, maybe it’s some way to try to trap me into spending more then I can pay off, but they’ll never catch me :)
Kevin $$$$ / Credit Card Company 0
Edit – Thanks to those who found my little APR error, changes the math a bit.
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